Yesterday I Have Mostly Been:

Visiting Bodnant Garden. This is a wondrous place and as good a reason as you might find to justify the National Trust policy of taking over a great garden even if the adjoining great house does not come with it. I believe this policy may have been instituted with Bodnant as its first example. The Groupie and I walked extensively and enjoyed a picnic lunch at the Far End of the garden. 

Eating - anchovies on toast. A particular favourite.

Drinking - Chianti.

Feeling - good about life.   

A Culinary Discovery

You all know me - I'm a world recognised connoisseur of fine food. You knew that didn't you? Well, that being so, how is it that only as I approach my sixty-second birthday (I know, it's kind of you to say so - that's clean living for you) have I discovered something as delicious as Chinese Takeaway Salt and Pepper Chips, also known as Salt and Chilli Chips. I was introduced to these on Saturday evening by Daughter Number 2 with whom we were staying in that Manchester. Bloody Hell, these things are magic. I swilled mine down with a Reserva Rioja, having had an earlier pint of Timothy Taylor at the pub. Life's been good to me so far.

It has finally caught up with us - the Groupie has gone down with Covid. She feels quite a bit ropey but is handling it better than I would. Thus far I am testing negative and hope to maintain that status to allow me to play golf with the lads tomorrow. Got to get your priorities right on these occasions.

DN2 was on good form at the weekend and we had a satisfying time getting her garden into shape. I can't get over-enthusiastic about gardening, preferring to let things get just out of hand so that you can wade in and enjoy the full fruits of the labour of tidying-up. I exclude lawn-mowing from this sentiment - because, as any fule kno, ownership of a petrol mower is one of the greatest things known to man. DN2 doesn't have a lawn but she does know how to handle a petrol mower because her doting father taught her this vital life skill when she was back home last year. Chip off the old block. DN1 (resident in that London) doesn't have a lawn either but she is a keen horticulturalist and lives with copious plantage. They do make you proud. Behold the only things greater than yourself.

 

Fever Pitch

The Dunmore Shield is under way and the shock news is that Big Fat Pig is the leader after two rounds of patchy golf. Mind you the weighted points system we are using means that the opening skirmishes are of far less importance than the remaining two challenges - Holyhead today and Bull Bay tomorrow.

Day one saw all three of us (ViperJohn is hors de combat and resting up at home - we miss you mate) struggle at St Deiniol, Bangor. I think it fair to say that this course will not be appearing on anyone's list of favourite venues. Technically speaking we would have to descibe it as bloody hilly (this is something of an understatement) and the Pig, as he usually does, carrying his bag (the other two were in a buggy) was well knackered at the end. The scoring was dire but the Pig took a slim lead. You get a feel of the terrain from the photo below. Trust me it's all like that. The day was however brought to a fine conclusion by the beer and curry consumed by the Pig and the Boy Bacon - Big Willy had returned to his new digs in Criccieth but is now part of the full party camping at Plas Piggy.

Day two's venue received far more favourable reviews. We were at The Anglesey, the island's only true links. Big Willy (who knows a thing or two about golf courses) said it put him in mind of Westward Ho! A fllattish piece of duneland with rumpled fairways, it was well-received by all competitors.The Pig's long-game deficiencies were papered-over by a stellar putting display and a marginal improvement in his lead was garnered. A good day was made yet better by fish and chips from the Golden Fry in Benllech.

The Anglesey

Today it will be Holyhead Golf Club followed by a meal at the Sea Shanty, Bring it on.

Quebec.4

The Pig has lost his magic touch: no more whale sightings to report although the Groupie did spy a beluga from the viewpoint at the Tadoussac Dunes.

We've taken to the open road for our last two days here in Tadoussac. Saturday saw us heading north alongside the Saint Lawrence, stopping at intervals to take in the scenery. This is a magical part of the world. Today we headed inland to the Saguenay Valley, being particularly taken with the fjord at Sainte Rose du Nord.

Sainte Rose du Nord

More fine dining to report, this time at Le Cafe Boheme here in Tadoussac. Ambitious cooking carried off with aplomb in a cheerful bistro setting. The ambition can be seen from the Pig's choices - home-made black pudding as a starter and halibut cheek served with seaweed risotto and caper croutons, for the main. It all worked beautifully. They even serve decent local craft beers. Recommended, as is Tadoussac in general. Lonely Planet may be sniffy about it but to my mind it does tourism rather acceptably. I could imagine living here, particularly now I've found an English language sports channel. Only joking, if the Pig did settle here he would naturellement learn la langue, even better than he deja speaks it

Quebec.3

The caravan has moved on to Tadoussac, whale watching capital of Canada. A quaint town of clapboard houses set up to receive tourists and to deliver them onto the seas in search of the massive mammals. It's a great place.

We were lucky with the clear skies and calm seas yesterday when Pig and Groupie set out on the pride of the AML fleet, Le Grand Fleuve. This is a far cry from the Zodiac boats which jet out from the quay to get very close to the whales but your intrepid duo are rather more into luxury and had therefore opted for the VIP package on the big ship. Expensive, yes a little, but  a decided success. You get a private lounge with panoramic views and a private deck so that you don't have to charge from side to side of the ship when the beasts are sighted. You also get as much food and drink as you might be tempted to take. Worth the extra. We saw beluga, fin and minke whales and some grey seal. Astounding.

And that was not the end to the day's delights. After a brief rest we walked around the headland by the quay and the usually unobservant Pig spied a fin whale close in to the shore. A free bonus. All of this followed by an excellent dinner at La Bolee where classic French style cuisine meets Canadian standards of service. Again, outstanding. The Pig had beetroot soup, venison and maple syrup ice cream washed down by a very acceptable local Riesling. Today we are heading further up the North Shore for some more coastal delights and some leaf peeping.

An interesting diversion - I have been watching some playoff baseball with French commentary. Tres interessant.

Advent 10

Paley's Place in Portland, Oregon comes close, and The Marram Grass on Anglesey even closer, but the best meal I have ever eaten was in the glamorous county of Essex. Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck is the locus of gastronomy as theatre. The picture is of the punningly titled 'Sound of the See'. The food feeds all the senses. It may be fashionable not to be impressed but nobody could ever call me a dedicated follower of fashion. Seriously good

A Long Weekend

My lawn here is a motley of little green and rather more burnt straw and still no sign of meaningful rain. All of which made for a contrast in Anglesey where it rained (not torrentially but with feeling) last Friday while we waited in for the man who was measuring for some new blinds. As with so much else on the island we were taken aback by the relative cheapness of the service - a particular contrast with the London outposts of our property empire, that is to say the flats belonging to Daughters One and Two.

DN2 trained it up to Anglesey to join us for weekend and a jolly nice time was had by all in pleasant temperatures. An appetite-stimulating walk on the beach at Newborough was followed by an appetite-satisfying dinner at the Tavern on the Bay at Red Wharf Bay. Black pudding starter, fish stew and cheese board for the Big Fat Pig. Sirloin steak for the Groupie, swordfish for DN2. All highly commendable and washed down with Chablis. Good times.

There are plenty of worse places to eat

DN2 accompanied us back to home and left early for London this morning. We had come back from the island early enough for one of the Pig's signature barbecues. Barbecue is possibly my only marketable life skill.

Molinari celebrates landing Pig's online bet

Sorry I didn't share my hot tip for the Open golf. Pig has remotely trousered his winnings on the phlegmatic Signor Molinari. Just occasionally I get these things right.   

What I Did On My Holidays: 9

We're back at home now after a drive that couldn't have been much different from the difficult journey up to Northumberland. Then we seemed to be in one traffic jam occupying most of Yorkshire whereas yesterday we sailed home with minimal delay. We had pizza for tea to ward off post-holiday blues. I washed it down with a nice chianti.

Our penultimate full day on holiday took us to Alnwick Castle. Fabulous - don't be tempted to do the garden and the castle together in one afternoon. If you must do both on the same day, make sure it is a full day. The state rooms in the castle are particularly impressive - monumental spaces and magnificent art on the walls. Also some of the most knowledgeable and approachable room attendants known to man. As you can probably tell I really liked the place. Hats off to the resident Percy family who seem to me to be handling their great good fortune with an appropriate touch. Oh, and don't worry - they don't overdo the Harry Potter connection.

Dining Room at Alnwick Castle

Our last day took in some beach walks in high winds and an evening meal at the Potted Lobster in Bamburgh. Bloody good, most particularly the salt chilli squid I had as a starter - The Potted Lobster

Final thoughts - Northumberland, a magical county, particularly in the lucky weather we encountered. I have had a monopoly over the company of the Groupie for a fortnight and that can make a magical place seem even more enchanted. Am I glad to be back in the luxuries of home? Not quite yet, but I'm getting there. And anyway we're making a very swift run up to Anglesey tonight to see how the installation of new kitchen and bathroom is going. Not exactly the Percy family but we should count our blessings.

What I Did On My Holidays: 7

Kelso Abbey

We conducted a whistlestop tour of the Scottish Borders today, pride of place going to Kelso which (and I may be miles wide of the mark here because I have done no research) exudes an atmosphere of dignified affluence, nowhere better exemplified than in the strikingly well maintained Garden of Remembrance. Kelso may very well be the pie capital of the world - only £1.10 for a chicken curry pie, this a full seventeen pence less than the excellent chicken and mushroom pie I had in Alnwick last week. Can we take these prices home with us please?

We crossed back into England for dinner and on that subject I have some exciting news for you. It is official, OG has spoken and the Groupie will verify his claim - Lewis's in Seahouses is the best chip shop in the world. Yes even better than the Golden Fry in Benllech. Fabulous chips and divine haddock. Fizzy wine for pudding I think.

Of Samosas, Pork Pies, Haggis And Rugby Football

Oh and I should have mentioned the beer because there was plenty of that as well.

Just back from the European Finals Weekend in Edinburgh. A bloody great trip. So first of all big thanks to our organiser JRS - good hotel, good driving, looked after the kitty and even got us kitted out in matching shirts and rain tops - tops which have what AW (who couldn't remember the word 'hood' - it's his age) termed an 'integrated hat'. I think AW might very well be the funniest man in the world. What great company - blessings to aforesaid JRS and AW and also to AS, AO and BH.

Food of kings - or should that be maharajas?

Samosas: BH had brought a megabox of Indian provender. I had samosas for lunch on Friday, supper on Friday (actually the wee hours of Saturday) and breakfast on Sunday. I like samosas.

Pork pies: AO is a titan in the pork pie industry - and no, I'm not making that up. He brought a megabox of pork pie based provender. I had pork pies for lunch on Friday and for lunch on Sunday. I have also had a pork pie back at home today. I like pork pies.

Haggis: AS (who has claims to be the most civilised front row forward in history) had booked us into Howies for lunch on match day. This sheltered us from the rain (although we did, of course, all have integrated hats with us) and the provender was excellent. I had the cullen skink as a starter and the haggis for main. I like haggis.

The rugby? Well, Friday's Challenge Cup was a poorish game between two sides, Gloucester and Stade Francais, who looked terrified of winning. Still, the ultimate Stade victory was a reward for the titan that is Sergio Parisse. And I had samosas for supper so not a bad day at the office.

Saturday, and the Champions Cup Final was a different cup of tea. Played at a giddying pace and full of thunderous defence, Saracens and Clermont Auvergne served up a treat, deservedly won by Saracens whose athletic professionalism really ought to be admired, not cavilled at by the jealous. I had a Macdonalds for my late supper. Which was nice, but not as good, in the wider scale of things, as either samosas or pork pies. Or indeed haggis.

Life is good.

Arrivederci Bologna

Now on the train back to Brum at the end of our Bologna excursion - inspired by Rick Stein's televisual exploits and definitely worth the effort and moderate expense.

We finished on a high before we flew out yesterday evening by having a superb lunch at Va Mo La. The lesson is to listen to your host, in this case the diminutive Anna whose sister's apartment we had rented. We tried two of the restaurants she had recommended and each was superb. Which sums up Bologna nicely. Known as Italy's red city both because of its red buildings and because of its left politics; known also as The Fat due to its love of food - they're not wrong there.

So now it will be back to the grindstone of the thesis and the terror of learning my lines for The Winslow Boy at the end of the month. I will be playing Sir Robert Morton, the arrogant barrister - how do I get these parts?

498 Steps To Heaven

long before Manhattan

Bologna is a terrific place. We meandered around the colonnaded streets yesterday, having first climbed the 498 steps to the top of Torre degli Asinelli. This is a tilting medieval status symbol that rises 318 feet above the city. You ascend up worn wooden flights in conditions that would give a British Health and Safety Officer kittens. Particularly on a day as blameless as yesterday the views are stunning.

We rounded out the day with a fine meal at a recommended trattoria, La Montanara. Some days it's good to be alive.

Refreshingly Barmy

The production of top grade balsamic vinegar that is. The process takes years (decades even) and the output is exquisite but expensive. We inspected the batteria (the rows of barrels used in the process) at Villa San Donnino yesterday as part of a guided food tour and tasted the produce with ice cream of all things - it's fabulous. We had preceded this with a visit to a parmesan factory and followed it with a turn round a prosciutto factory where thay let me have a go on the slicing machine. A great day out courtesy of Italian Days . Highy recommended if you're in the area.

A process untouched by automation

The weather here in Bologna has been a blessing - clear blue Spring skies. We have been joined by Daughters Numbered 1 & 2 - I say that as if there are more than that, which there definitely are not. The Two Man Idiot Show (as the Groupie christened them in their youth) flew in last night and will be leading today's wanderings in the old city. There will be more food - this city creaks under the weight of its epicurean delights.

A Matter Of Attitude To Coffee

OG is on the road. In Bologna with the Groupie. Great place - masses of churches (see what I did there?) and Europe's oldest university. We've been here less than a day and already had two good meals out - most notably lunch today at Trattoria Leonida. Top grade risotto, decent pinot grigio, all washed down with an espresso and a limoncello. Top banana as they don't say round here.

marker of civilisation

The flight over was fine but I can't completely get over my hatred of crowds in a place like Heathrow - all those people nervously making their way somewhere else and temporarily losing contact with their manners. Why do people stand up as soon as the plane comes to a halt, even though they know full well they can't get off yet and that they are going to have to queue just like everyone else for their baggage? Mass hysteria? And don't gey me started on excess hand baggage - make the bastards walk, that's what I say.

We're staying in an apartment in the centre of the city. You can tell you are in a civilised place when you get advice about the best way to prepare your coffee - the stove top is thankfully better than the formidable looking machine. Once again, top banana.

Are Brilliant ... Mark XXIII

food of the Midland gods

Rugby union football, to give it it's full name. I will write elsewhere about the start of the Six Nations but for now I'm on about plain old amateur rugger played by muddied oafs. I was at Edwardians yesterday afternoon to advise a young referee. A muddy pitch, a sparse crowd (more people in the bar watching the internationals - shame on you) and , all in all, a feeling of remarkable wellbeing.

Real ale - in this case the pint of carefully drawn Black Sheep in the bar after the game.

Pork scratchings - which I had with the beer. Black Country cordon bleu.

Holidays 16.2 - A New Contender

A day of familiarity and at its end a new discovery right under our very noses.

the Whistler mural - a national treasure

Familiarity - the rhododendron garden at Plas Newydd. Rhododendron are an invader but now glowingly assimilated and at the far end of the Plas Newydd estate they make a pretty picture - as can be seen from the OG + Groupie papsnap hereto attached. As for Plas Newydd, well we didn't have time today to trot through the house (we are National Trust members natch, compulsory at our age and station in life) but everyone, and I mean everyone should do so because of the Whistler mural.

The new discovery: The Tavern on the Bay, a restaurant and bar at St David's Park, Red Wharf Bay. Now you would have thought that putting a gastro pub type operation on a holiday park would be a recipe for disaster. Well, I'm still not quite clear how they've got away with it but most assuredly they have. Yes there are families there but the service is so swift and charming that you are taken aback.  A light and clean room with panoramic views from Moelfre to the North and the great Orme to the South. Bosting. None of this would work without the food being good and the news is that it was more than good. OG had a steak which was terrific (and he's fussy on steak) and the Groupie loved the chicken in a parmesan sauce with onion rice. Nice chablis to wash it down. We'll be back. Within the week I suspect. Genuinely arresting experience - Tavern on the Bay

46 Days And The Contrary Law Of Expanding Returns

Contrary to my carefully cultivated image as a champagne-swilling parvenu, I do love a good bargain. So today has been a good day.

tres satisfactoire

I cycled (without puncture - Heaven be praised) for ninety minutes this morning, even seeking out the hilly bits to push myself that little bit more. Tres satisfactoire. Then I took the old garden furniture to the recycling shop - it feels that much more satisfactory than consigning usable items to the ignominy of landfill. Tres satisfactoire. Then I bought some sweet potatoes because tonight I am essaying sweet potato fries. Hopefully tres satisfactoire. Then I visited Majestic Wine. I love Majestic - lots to choose from, enthusiastic and knowledgeable staff, what's not to love. It's bin-end time at the moment and if you're thinking of going to Mere Green to scoop up the bargain Undurraga or ludicrously (£3.66 per bottle) cheap Pied Tanque Blanc, forget it. The OG/BFP has bought the lot. Tres, tres satisfactoire. And just to cap it all, because I had taken all the stock they even sent me on my way with the three-quarter full bottle from the tasting counter. Tres, tres, tres satisfactoire.

Goodbye To All That

Sitting in reception at the Inn at Northrup Station having checked out of our last US hotel room. All that is left now is train to Vancouver, one night there and the plane home tomorrow.

It has been nothing short of fabulous and we treated ourselves to a highfalutin finish last night at the highly recommended Paley's Place. This was food and wine out of the top drawer. Mildly pretentious? Possibly but sometimes that can be nice. I wore long trousers for the first and only time on this holiday. Details at Posh Nosh Portland .

Portland grew on me. I strongly suspect it is a great place to live because food, wine, beer, coffee are abundant in independent splendour. Possibly not a great choice for a lengthy holiday stay unless of course you want to do the said food, wine, beer, coffee to death. Incidentally, Portland is the site of the first ever Fred Meyer store - our new retail fave.

I should have known it would happen - I logged on with a strong foreboding and found that England have capitulated in the cricket. Still tomorrow is another day.

No More Driving On The Right

Transport of delight

The OG tour bus has rolled back into the city, latest stop Portland Oregon. The tour bus (Ford Focus) has been returned safely and unmolested to Avis after fourteen hundred miles of faithful service - BFP doesn't do downtown driving, it is safe for neither him nor the locals.

First impressions of Portland are favourable - we even had a taxi driver who was listening to the BBC, what a dude! BFP/OG and the tour groupie are shacked up in the uber trendy Inn at Northrup Station, so cool it is bordering on glacial. The room has two televisions (but no pool to throw them into) and a kitchen. Dig the vibe at Northrup Station .

But enough of Portand for that will surely follow. No I must boast (that is the only fair word) about the day OG and groupie had yesterday. We breakfasted of donuts, tea for her and coffee for him. We then set out with every intention of buying lunchtime provender from the artisan bakery in Yachats. It was closed and this was our first stroke of luck because it drove us into the arms of the retail giant that is Fred Meyer, Florence, OR branch. Shopping is something America does better than us - simply put there is nowhere in England where one can buy four 250 ml picnic cans of Californian pinot grigio (for $4.99 mark you), two quality sandwiches, A tub of varied olives and peppers, a tub of fresh fruit, and a University of Oregon teeshirt all in one place. With air conditioning that actually works and toilets (sorry restrooms) that are fit for use.

The drive to Florence was fortuitous because the views going South-bound on Route101 are even more stunning than those we had seen coming up the other way. The Oregon coast is indescribably awesome so I won't bother, I'll instead cull a couple of pictures from the old inter web thing and hope they give you a flavour. Put it this way, I'm relatively well travelled but, in the words of the song, I ain't never seen nothing like this. The first is of the Oregon Dune Belt; the second of the beach at the Muriel L. Ponsler Memorial Picnic Area  off 101. We walked for a mile in each direction and saw, in mid holiday season, only twenty living souls - and four of those were dogs. Muriel must have been some woman to merit a memorial like that.

Finally a word for a fine end to a fine day - dinner at Ona in Yachats was very much up to scratch: chicken which Mrs OG/Groupie described as fabulous; surf and turf for OG/BFP in which the turf was good and the surf divine. We will be back to Yachats and, given the journey from Brum, that's quite a promise and quite a recommendation of a heavenly spot on the map.

More Dining

Tucked just off the main drag of Vancouver's Gastown we (or more accurately Sharon) found another little gem for an early dinner (earliness explained below) - see Alporto

A nice prosecco was taken. We both settled on a pizza. These were delayed because the perfectionist chef was not satisfied with the first ones out of the oven. We were kept informed of progress and given complimentary starters to keep us occupied - a subtly spiced gazpacho. At the end of the meal we also got free, but wholly unneeded, liqueurs to compensate for what had been only a slight interruption. The pizzas were properly Italian in type and on the correct side of superb. Change from $100 (before the richly deserved tip). A great discovery - 7.5/10.

We dined early because we have had a pre-dawn start today and this missive therefore comes to you from the Amtrak Cascades train from Vancouver to Seattle. We've just crossed the border and they haven't got me yet. The cinnamon rolls from the buffet car are sodding enormous and reasonably priced. It's a beautiful day and the views are stunning. Sorry in a way to have left Vancouver but there are new discoveries awaiting us.

Last but not unimportantly I have bought myself a Vancouver souvenir teeshirt to augment my collection of snappy casual gear. Girls go crazy for a sharp dressed man.